Exploring Mandu, Madhya Pradesh: Where Architecture Meets Eternal Love
A Ghost City with a Beating Heart
Perched atop a plateau in Madhya Pradesh, surrounded by the Vindhya ranges and lush valleys, lies Mandu—a city of love, music, and timeless ruins. Once a thriving fortress capital, today Mandu is an open-air museum of Afghan architecture, mysterious tombs, palace pavilions, and echoing corridors that whisper stories of passion and poetry.
But Mandu is not just stone and silence. It’s where the monsoon paints green over ancient ramparts, where birds nest in domes built for kings, and where every stone still hums with the tale of Baz Bahadur and Rani Roopmati—a legendary love story that has outlived kingdoms.
Mandu’s Forgotten Importance: The Rise and Fall of a Fort City
Mandu, originally called Mandavgarh, flourished between the 10th and 16th centuries. At its peak under the Malwa Sultanate, it was considered one of India’s most beautiful and impregnable cities. Over time, the capital shifted and Mandu faded into historical oblivion—its wealth, stories, and artistry slowly swallowed by vines and time.
Yet, the architecture left behind—domed tombs, lakeside palaces, victory arches, stepwells—remains one of the most stunning examples of early Indo-Afghan design.
A Love That Never Died: Baz Bahadur and Roopmati
The heart of Mandu beats in the tragic love story of Baz Bahadur, the last independent ruler of Mandu, and Roopmati, a Hindu singer and poetess. Their love, immortalised in songs and local legends, was marked by passion, music, and a devotion that transcended politics.
Roopmati refused to leave her beloved Narmada River, and Baz Bahadur had the Rewa Kund built so she could see it daily. But their romance ended in sorrow when Mughal forces invaded. Roopmati, to avoid capture, took her own life. Baz Bahadur fled. Yet their story still haunts the ruins they once called home.
Architectural Marvels: What Makes Mandu Unique
1. Jahaz Mahal (Ship Palace)
This palace, built between two artificial lakes, appears to float like a ship. It was a pleasure resort for royal women, designed with pools, water channels, and pavilions.
2. Hindola Mahal (Swinging Palace)
Named for its sloping walls that resemble a swing, this palace served as a royal durbar hall. It is a feat of balance and proportion, reflecting Indo-Afghan engineering brilliance.
3. Roopmati’s Pavilion
A sandstone structure with sweeping views of the Narmada valley. This is where Roopmati lived, sang, and watched the river she loved.
4. Baz Bahadur’s Palace
Known for its wide courtyards and acoustic design, this palace was built for music and poetry—echoes still carry a tune if you try singing under the dome.
5. Jami Masjid and Hoshang Shah’s Tomb
Built in Persian style, these religious structures predate the Taj Mahal. In fact, Hoshang Shah’s tomb is considered one of the earliest marble mausoleums in India and is believed to have inspired Shah Jahan.
Nearby Places Worth Visiting
Maheshwar (90 km): Known for its ghats, handloom saris, and riverside serenity.
Mandu to Indore (95 km): For more vibrant food, history museums, and airport access.
Omkareshwar (130 km): A sacred island on the Narmada shaped like the Hindu Om symbol.
Patalpani Waterfall (near Mhow): A scenic waterfall ideal during the monsoon season.
Foods to Try in Mandu
Mandu isn’t known for a booming culinary scene, but you’ll find hearty, local Malwa cuisine and regional specialities in small dhabas and guesthouse kitchens.
Dal Bafla: A cousin of Rajasthan’s dal bati, this slow-cooked dish is heavy, smoky, and satisfying.
Poha Jalebi: Best for breakfast, especially in nearby Indore.
Sabudana Khichdi: A light, tapioca-based meal popular across MP.
Local Mahua liquor (in tribal villages nearby): If you want a sip of indigenous tradition.
Why Visit Mandu?
For the romance: Even if you don’t believe in ghosts, you’ll feel something in the air here.
For the ruins: Mandu’s architecture is subtle yet majestic—often without crowds.
For the monsoon: The best time to visit is July to September, when green overtakes stone, and reflections dance in the lakes.
For the quiet: Unlike tourist-heavy cities, Mandu lets you wander in peace, with birds and wind for company.
How to Reach Mandu
Nearest Airport: Indore (95 km away)
By Road: Easily accessible via taxi or bus from Indore or Dhar
Where to Stay: MP Tourism’s Malwa Retreat and Malwa Resort offer clean, scenic lodging. A few boutique stays and heritage-style lodges also exist.