The Spice Trails of Mumbai: Walking Through the City’s Oldest Markets

18 Oct

Step into the narrow lanes of South Mumbai, and the air itself tells a story — sharp, earthy, and intoxicating. Before Mumbai became India’s financial capital, it was a bustling trading port where spices were as prized as gold. Today, that old-world aroma still lingers in corners of the city — in its century-old spice markets, where the scent of cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and dried chillies narrate tales of maritime trade, family legacies, and culinary devotion.

Welcome to Mumbai’s historic spice walk, a sensory journey that takes you back to the pre-independence era — to the bazaars that once supplied royal kitchens, colonial ships, and every Bombay household that loved its masala with heart.

1. Lalbaug Market: The Beating Heart of Spice Mumbai

Tucked between the busy mills and temples of Parel, Lalbaug Market has been the spice nucleus of Mumbai since the 1800s. Once frequented by mill workers’ families, this market thrives on community, conversation, and fragrance.

Must-visit shops:

Ramdas Keshav Masalewala (Est. 1885): Currently run by the fourth generation, this shop is known for its Malvani masala, ground fresh each morning on traditional stone grinders.
Mohanlal Spices: A hidden gem selling over 50 spice blends — including homemade godaa masala and kanda-lasun masala that capture the soul of Maharashtrian kitchens.

What to buy: Fresh turmeric, Malvani masala, dried red chillies from Byadgi, and saffron from Kashmir.

2. Mirchi Galli, Crawford Market: Mumbai’s Oldest Spice Alley

If Lalbaug is Mumbai’s local spice hub, Mirchi Galli (the Chilli Lane) in Crawford Market is its heritage capital. This narrow alley, lined with spice shops dating back to the early 1900s, is a kaleidoscope of red, yellow, and gold hues — a living museum of India’s spice history.

Must-visit shops:

Motilal Masalawala & Sons (Est. 1906): One of Mumbai’s oldest spice traders, known for their carefully aged pepper and single-origin cumin.
Haji Ismail Masalawala: A family-owned store selling secret blends of garam masala and birista (fried onion mix) passed down for three generations.
Taj Masala Mart: Perfect for travellers looking for neatly packed spice souvenirs — their Bombay Curry Powder is a best-seller.

What to buy: Garam masala, black cardamom, nutmeg, peppercorns, and a mix called “Sirka masala” (for pickling).

3. Dadar Market: The Home Cook’s Paradise

While tourists flock to Crawford, Mumbai’s grandmothers still swear by Dadar Market, especially for fresh spice ingredients used in daily cooking. Here, you’ll find heaps of coriander seeds, mustard, and asafoetida — alongside spice pastes made in small, family-run kitchens.

Must-visit shops:

Shree Siddhivinayak Masala Stores: Their Kolhapuri chutney masala and pav bhaji masala are city-famous.
Borkar’s Masala (since 1930): Specialises in coastal spice mixes made with dry coconut, sesame, and tamarind.

What to buy: Dry coconut, mustard seeds, hing (asafoetida), and turmeric sticks.

4. Masjid Bunder: The Wholesale Legacy

For a true “spice trader’s” experience, head to Masjid Bunder — the heart of Mumbai’s wholesale spice and grain trade. The market here supplied spices to the British and continues to ship consignments worldwide. The lanes smell of pepper, coriander, cloves, and commerce.

Must-visit shops:

Bombay Masala Company (Est. 1910): Famous for sourcing cardamom and pepper directly from Kerala.
M.H. Shroff & Co.: The go-to for restaurateurs and chefs, offering bulk spices with unmatched aroma.

What to buy: Bulk pepper, cinnamon sticks, dried bay leaves, star anise, and cloves.

A Few Tips for Your Spice Walk

Go early morning (9 AM–11 AM) — the markets are quieter, and you’ll see fresh grinding.
Ask for tasting samples. Many shops let you smell and even lightly taste spice blends before you buy.
Carry cash and cloth bags — many of these stores still operate traditionally.
Don’t rush. Every shopkeeper has a story — most will gladly share their family’s spice heritage over a cup of masala chai.

Why This Walk Matters

These spice markets aren’t just shopping hubs — they are living archives of Mumbai’s trading legacy. Long before fusion restaurants and modern supermarkets, these were the places that connected India’s farms, kitchens, and global cuisine. To walk through them is to trace the evolution of Mumbai’s food culture — one pinch of masala at a time.