From Bandhani to Batik — Exploring the Textile Heartbeat of Rajasthan’s Lake City

The City That Wears Its Culture

Udaipur — often celebrated for its palaces and lakes — also tells a quieter story in its looms, dyes, and hand-block prints. Walk through the city’s bustling markets or peek inside its old artisan workshops. You’ll hear the rhythmic tap of wooden blocks, smell the faint aroma of natural dyes, and see yards of vivid fabric dancing in the desert breeze.

The textile craft of Udaipur isn’t just art — it’s living heritage, passed from one generation to another, connecting the city’s royal past to its vibrant present.

This heritage walk through Udaipur’s handlooms and handicrafts takes you into the heart of Rajasthan’s fabric traditions — Bandhani, Batik, Leheriya, and handwoven cottons — each with a history as intricate as its patterns.

1. The Story of Bandhani: Tying Knots in Colour and Time

Bandhani, or tie-and-dye, is one of Rajasthan’s oldest textile traditions, tracing its roots back over 5,000 years. The word comes from the Sanskrit bandh, meaning “to tie.” The technique involves carefully tying thousands of tiny knots on the cloth fabric before dyeing it in vibrant colours.

Each knot resists the dye, creating intricate dot patterns once untied. Bandhani isn’t just decoration — it’s deeply symbolic. Different colours and motifs once indicated a woman’s marital status, region, or social identity.

In Udaipur, Bandhani sarees, dupattas, and turbans are still worn during festivals like Gangaur and Teej. The most traditional hues — maroon, saffron, yellow, and indigo — echo Rajasthan’s desert palette.

Where to Experience It:

Hathi Pol Bazaar – Watch artisans tie and dye the fabrics in small workshops tucked behind the market.
Rajasthali Government Emporium – Offers authentic, certified Bandhani sarees and dupattas made in Udaipur and neighbouring towns.

Pro Tip:

Look for fine knots and detailed pattern alignment — true Bandhani pieces are lightweight, with no colour bleeding and a soft, hand-dyed texture.

2. The Art of Batik: Painting with Wax and Fire

While Bandhani binds colour, Batik controls it with wax. Introduced to Rajasthan through trade routes from Java and Gujarat, Batik found a unique expression in Udaipur’s artisan communities.

In Batik printing, molten wax is applied with fine brushes or metal tools to form intricate designs on cotton or silk. The fabric is then dyed — the wax resists the colour, preserving the original shade underneath. Once the wax is removed, what emerges is an artwork of layered hues and crackled lines, as if the fabric itself has aged beautifully with time.

Batik became a popular art form in Udaipur during the Mewar royal period, often used in temple hangings, wall décor, and garments for nobility.

Where to See or Buy:

Shilpgram Crafts Village – Just outside Udaipur, this open-air museum hosts Batik demonstrations and sells authentic handmade fabrics.
Prachin Arts and Crafts, Jagdish Chowk – Known for contemporary Batik scarves, stoles, and wall hangings made by local women’s collectives.

Pro Tip:

Choose Batik with fine crackle lines and layered tones — a hallmark of traditional craftsmanship, not mass-printed imitation.

3. Leheriya and Mothda: The Desert’s Rippled Canvas

No Rajasthani wardrobe is complete without Leheriya, the “wave pattern” dyeing technique that mirrors the ripples of sand dunes. Created by rolling and tying fabric diagonally before dyeing, Leheriya sarees and turbans represent joy and festivity — especially during monsoon celebrations.

In contrast, Mothda patterns — smaller, square-like designs — reflect meticulous precision. Both are loved for their fluid movement of colour and symbolic charm.

Where to Find Them:

Bapu Bazaar – For colourful Leheriya dupattas and sarees at fair prices.
Jagdish Temple Market – Ideal for premium hand-dyed Leheriya cotton suits.

Pro Tip:

Genuine Leheriya features continuous wave-like patterns without colour overlap — each hue separated cleanly by hand-tied resist lines.

4. The Chaniya Choli: Rajasthan’s Living Costume

The traditional Chaniya Choli — a flared skirt paired with a cropped blouse and odhni — is the embodiment of Rajasthan’s festive spirit. In Udaipur, these are often crafted with mirror work, gota patti embroidery, and Bandhej patterns, blending colour with craftsmanship.

Originally worn by rural women for mobility and comfort, the Chaniya Choli evolved into royal attire during the Mewar dynasty, adorned with gold threads and gemstone embellishments.

Today, they’re still hand-stitched and decorated in old city workshops — a blend of tradition and modern fashion.

Where to Experience:

Ghanta Ghar Market – Offers everything from hand-embroidered lehengas to everyday Bandhej skirts.
Sadhna Women’s Cooperative – A social enterprise employing rural artisans who specialise in mirror work and traditional stitches.

Pro Tip:

Ask about the origin of the embroidery — each district in Rajasthan has a distinct style, and genuine work is done on handloom cotton or silk.

5. Cotton Comforts: The Soul of Everyday Rajasthan

Rajasthan’s heat inspired a textile culture centred around light, breathable cottons. Hand-block printed cotton suits and dupattas, using natural vegetable dyes, are Udaipur’s unsung treasures.

Patterns often tell stories — peacocks for prosperity, paisleys for fertility, and lotuses for purity. The Sanganeri and Bagru prints, though originating near Jaipur, are widely produced and loved in Udaipur’s workshops.

Where to Buy:

Aavaran – Echoes of Rural India (Fatehpura) – Known for indigo-dyed, hand-block printed cotton wear supporting rural artisans.
Rang Sagar and Ashoka Arts, Surajpol – For affordable daily wear in traditional prints.

Pro Tip:

Opt for hand-blocked pieces over screen prints — you’ll see slight irregularities that signify human touch and authenticity.

Your Heritage Walk Itinerary in Udaipur

Start at Shilpgram – Meet artisans and see live demonstrations of Batik and Bandhani.
Move to Hathi Pol and Jagdish Chowk – Explore textile boutiques and talk to craftspeople.
Stop by Rajasthali or Sadhna Emporium – For certified handmade purchases.
End at Bapu Bazaar – Immerse yourself in the chaos of colours and fabric rolls.

Tip: Plan your visit early morning or late afternoon to avoid heat, and carry cash — many artisans still sell directly from their homes.

Why This Walk Matters

Every knot, dye, and stitch you see in Udaipur is part of a heritage that has survived royal courts, colonial trades, and changing fashion tides. By walking these lanes, you don’t just shop — you become part of a story woven through centuries.

Buying a Bandhani dupatta or a Batik wall hanging here means carrying a piece of Rajasthan’s living identity, where art is not displayed in museums but worn every day.